30th December 2005
Early start. CB and DT surfed Marijuana's 5' quite mellow, friendly locals, deep water, nasty rips on the inside. Fun.
CB/DT party wave, two Californians on the beach next to CF/SP shout "Go Team Helmet!".
Swell picking up. Talk of "The Eddie" being on in the next couple of days. Around lunchtime, Waimea starts to break.
Went to Pipe with CF's Mum & Pete. Amazing footage 15' plus action. Killer tube riding by Jamie O'brien. Humbled.
CB, CF & DT go for a walk along the beach - found a Turtle resting on the sand.
Scoped out a mellow break at Hale'iwa, the other side of the Basketball courts. Then went to Waimea... (can't write at the moment; god damn cat Danny on my lap - we appear to have adopted the bloody thing).
Waimea looked small until a set broke on the point, 3-4 times overhead with 6 guys in the water. Shore break was very impressive at 5'. CB cooked a whomping dinner followed by drinking with local boy Josh.
All agreed that tomorrow we go find good fun-size waves suitable for all further down the coast - if possible we'll surf all day.