3rd January 2006
Got up early, swell calmed a little and cleaned up during the early part of the morning. Surfed Alligator's with Mitch & Logan, our neighbours. Scottie got whomped and came straight in. Debbie paddled out, shared waves, nice 5' sets. DT charging, CF & CB scoped out a few. CF got a nasty hold down towards the end of the session. CB finished the session by getting 2 waves, the first involved getting run down by a wall of white-water, the second he didn't even make it to the bottom of the wave - thrown forward and hammered for ages - 6 gags. CF saw his board tombstone, finally CB surfaced and took a breath before the next one hit. This is totally humbling. Every set wave is so far double-overhead and hammers you underwater for so long. A rude awakening to the North Shore.
Brody described the story of his friends Cody Graham and Todd Chesser surfing outside Alligator's on a big day, it ended with Cody Graham bringing his friend's body in following a drowning, very sad.
CF's mum came by with Pete, we all headed east in search of sheltered waves, no luck, but did manage to explore the east coast, very tropical, beautiful mountains. Weather was very hot all day. Had dinner in Kailua, tasty mexican.
Dave began complaining that he "needed to go" on the way back. SP, the chauffeur for the trip, remarked that he was surprised that he hadn't talked it all out already. DT; comedian, surf legend, hippy, and all-round irritating sod!
H2 Oh my god.
Wildlife watch - At least 5-6 turtles in the line-up, Dave saw a humpback whale breach outside and CB encountered a turtle at close quarters when paddling on the inside.